Training
Plans
What's
a training plan, and how do I make one?
Before you train
any behavior, you need to make a training plan. The first step is to
define the behavior in detail.
- What will
the finished behavior look like? Is this a precise behavior? If so,
what distinct elements make it perfect?
- How will
this behavior be cued? What kind of latency is required?
- Does this
behavior have duration? Distance?
- Does your
dog have to be in a particular place relative to you to perform this
behavior? Are you always going to be sitting, standing, or lying down
when you give the cue? If not, plan to spend times doing reps with
both you and the dog in different positions.
- In what locations
will the behavior be cued?
- What distractions
might the dog face in those locations when performing the behavior?
- How reliable
does this behavior have to be?
The definition
of the behavior is a detailed description of where you want to go. The
second step is to evaluate where you currently are. If this is a brand
new behavior, that's easy! You're starting from scratch. If this is
an in-progress behavior, evaluate the behavior for all of the above
criteria. Keep records and let the data tell you exactly what your dog
is capable of doing reliably.
The final step
is to make a plan to get from where you are to where you want to be.
Start with the behavior. Break it into responses, and shape it to perfection.
When it's exactly right, add the cue. Then one by one add elements like
duration, distance, and distractions.
As you train,
keep your training plans firmly in mind. Track your progress. Periodically
review your training plan, and revise the definition of the final behavior,
if necessary. Don't stop working on the behavior until the behavior
your dog performs is a reliable mirror image of the behavior you described.
Following are
the general training plans I wrote for the behaviors Pax and I are concentrating
on right now. (The behaviors are listed in alphabetical order, not order
of priority.)
Attention
Cue: "Pax"
Description:
Upon verbal cue, Pax will make eye contact and will maintain
the eye contact until released or given a cue that requires him to break
eye contact.
Elements:
- Behavior
specifics: Eye contact.
- Duration:
Maintain eye contact up to five minutes.
- Distance:
Respond to cue up to fifty feet away.
- Latency:
Immediate.
- Locations:
Everywhere.
- Distractions:
Anything and everything. Especially distractions common in a dog show
or performance environment.
- Other:
Must maintain eye contact, even if I move unless given other cue.
Training
Plan: (Accomplish each level in multiple locations of gradually
increasing distractions.)
- Get offered
eye contact.
- Add the cue.
- Add duration
of several seconds.
- Add distractions
to proof that duration.
- Practice
turns a la Sue Eh? To teach Pax to seek eye contact.
- Add distance.
Down
Cue: Verbal
cue "down" and a hand signal.
Description:
On cue, Pax will lie in a relaxed down position. This is not
a "drop." This is a relaxed position for everyday use and long-term
stays.
Elements:
- Behavior
specifics: Body prone and relaxed.
- Duration:
Up to half an hour.
- Distance:
Respond to cue up to fifty feet away.
- Latency:
Immediate.
- Position:
Assume position from stand or sit. Pax should not change his position
relative to me, except in specific situations where that is specifically
trained. I should be able to be in any physical position.
- Locations:
Everywhere.
- Distractions:
Anything and everything. Especially distractions common in a dog
show or performance environment. Must maintain the down when being
touched by strangers or sniffed by strange dogs.
- Other:
Must maintain even when I'm out of sight.
Training
Plan: (Accomplish each level in multiple locations of gradually
increasing distractions.)
- Get the behavior.
- Add the cue.
- Add duration
of 15 seconds.
- Add distance
-- me leaving him while he maintains the down - of 20 feet and out
of sight.
- Proof the
cue.
- Reduce latency.
- Add distractions
- holding down while a ball (or bumper!) is thrown, while a dog or
person walks past, while cars and other vehicles go by, when food
is tossed, when a stranger comes up and touches him.
- Increase
duration.
Heel
Cue: My
left arm held in a certain position at my waist. No verbal cue.
Description:
While my arm is held in the cue position, Pax will maintain
proper heel position when I am moving forward, backwards, laterally,
making circles, making sharp turns, doing an about turn, or pivoting
either direction.
Elements:
- Behavior
specifics: Area between Pax's head and shoulder should remain
next to my left leg. He should remain about two inches away from me.
He should sit squarely when I stop. He doesn't have to maintain constant
eye contact, but he should check in frequently.
- Duration:
Up to two minutes of walking and direction changes.
- Latency:
Immediate.
- Locations:
Everywhere.
- Distractions:
Anything and everything. Especially distractions common in a dog
show or performance environment.
- Other:
Behavior should happen off-leash and on-leash.
Training
Plan: (Accomplish each level in multiple locations of gradually
increasing distractions.)
- Reinforce
Pax for sitting in correct heel position.
- Practice
pop steps.
- Get strong
eye contact.
- Play "Where's
my dog?"
- Practice
clockwise turns to get Pax into heel position.
- Add forward
movement.
- Add left
pivot with him starting in heel position.
- Add about
turn in either direction.
- Increase
duration.
- Add backwards
movement.
- Add distractions.
Loose
Leash Walking
Cue: "With
me."
Description:
An informal heel. The leash should be loose, and he shouldn't
be in front of me, but the behavior isn't precise. He can pay more attention
to his surroundings. He should sit when we stop, however.
Elements:
- Behavior
specifics: Auto-sit. No walking in front of me.
- Duration:
No specific duration. This could potentially be a long-term behavior,
however.
- Latency:
Immediate.
- Locations:
Everywhere.
- Distractions:
Anything and everything. Especially distractions common in a dog
show or performance environment.
- Other:
Should happen off-leash as well as on-leash. The key concepts
are position and self-control, not "loose leash" or "don't pull."
Training
Plan: (Accomplish each level in multiple locations of gradually
increasing distractions.)
- Reinforce
Pax for being next to me.
- Reinforce
sits in heel position.
- Reinforce
one or two steps next to me.
- Practice
frequent turns.
- Add duration.
- Walk toward
something Pax wants.
- Add distractions.
Place
Cue:
Verbal cue "Place."
Description:
On cue, Pax will go to a designated "place" and remain within
its boundaries until released. He may be in any position within the
boundaries.
Elements:
- Behavior
specifics: Go to place and remain there.
- Duration:
Up to an hour.
- Distance:
Respond to cue up to fifty feet away.
- Latency:
Immediate.
- Locations:
Everywhere.
- Distractions:
Anything and everything. Especially distractions common in a dog
show or performance environment. Must maintain the behavior when being
touched by strangers or sniffed by strange dogs.
- Other:
Must maintain even when I'm out of sight.
Training
Plan: (Accomplish each level in multiple locations of gradually
increasing distractions.)
- Reinforce
Pax for being on the blanket.
- Add cue.
- Add short
duration.
- Add distance.
- Teach him
to go to his place from a short distance away.
- Add duration.
- Add distractions.
Informal
Recall
Cue:
"Come"
Description:
Upon verbal cue, Pax will run directly to me and let me grab
hold of him.
Elements:
- Behavior
specifics: Fast!
- Distance:
Respond to cue up to 100 feet away.
- Latency:
Immediate.
- Locations:
Everywhere.
- Distractions:
Anything and everything.
Training
Plan: (Accomplish each level in multiple locations of gradually
increasing distractions.)
- Teach collar
grab (or body grab).
- Practice
calling Pax for high reinforcement.
- Add distance.
- Add distractions.
Sit
Cue: Initial
cue - verbal "sit." Fully-shaped behavior will have a hand signal.
Description:
On cue, Pax will drop into a competition-quality sit. Verbal
will be used for non-competition situations, so a "sloppier" response
is acceptable, though not encouraged.
Elements:
- Behavior
specifics: Tucked, square.
- Duration:
Up to five minutes.
- Distance:
Respond to cue up to fifty feet away.
- Latency:
Immediate.
- Position:
Assume position from stand, down, or walk. Pax should not change
his position relative to me, except in specific situations where that
is specifically trained. I should be able to be in any physical position.
- Locations:
Everywhere.
- Distractions:
Anything and everything. Especially distractions common in a dog
show or performance environment. Must maintain the sit when being
touched by strangers or sniffed by strange dogs.
- Other:
Must maintain even when I'm out of sight.
Training
Plan: (Accomplish each level in multiple locations of gradually
increasing distractions.)
- Get the behavior.
- Add the cue.
- Shape for
tucked.
- Shaped for
tucked and square.
- Add the hand
signal and proof.
- Reduce latency.
- Add duration
of 15 seconds.
- Add distance
-- me leaving him while he maintains the sit - of 20 feet and out
of sight.
- Add distractions
- holding sit while a ball (or bumper!) is thrown, while a dog or
person walks past, while cars and other vehicles go by, when food
is tossed, when a stranger comes up and touches him.
- Increase
duration.
Keeping
Records
Keeping a record
of your training will help you know exactly what you've trained and
exactly how your dog is performing. Keeping records can only help you.
If something isn't working, a record lets you go back and figure out
why. It lets you see, objectively, what's happening.
Possible fields
for training records include:
- Behavior
being trained.
- Date.
- Session start
and end times.
- Specific
criterion for the session.
- Number of
responses/Number of errors.
- Notes.
This doesn't
have to be a time-intensive process. Although taking the time to record
your data between sessions does take away from your training time, using
the information to evaluate your last session and plan your next, enables
you to make your training incredibly efficient.
The record sheet
I use looks essentially like this table:
Date
|
Criterion
|
#R/E
|
#R/E
|
#R/E
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
- Date:
Session date.
..
- Criterion:
The specific aspect you're training in this session. For example,
½ second of eye contact. The criterion determines when you click.
The rule
is simple: You click when you achieve the criteria. If your criterion
is ½ second of eye contact, you click after ½ second of eye contact.
If the criterion is 5 seconds of eye contact, you click after 5
seconds.
Note: The
steps listed under each behavior's "training plan" are
not criteria. They are goals. Each step may be made up of many,
many sub-steps necessary to reach the stated goal.
- #R/E:
Number of repetitions/Number of errors.
Why count
repetitions and errors? Comparing the ratio of repetitions to errors
gives you an objective way to determine the reliability of a behavior.
When training a behavior, strive for 80% reliability at a criterion
before making it harder.
If you work
in sets of either 5 or 10 reps, it's easy to tell when you've reached
80% reliability. Use the following guide:
- In a
5 rep session, 4 out of 5 correct equals 80%. If you make 2 or
more errors, stay at the same criterion.
- In a
10 rep session, 8 out of 10 correct equals 80%. If you make 3
or more errors, stay at the same criterion.
If you'd like
to use the record sheet I use, I saved one in rich-text format here.
Save it to your hard drive and make copies.
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